Sounds of Portugal

This Pause

After sheltering in place for more than forty days, we are still in Portugal, isolating ourselves as we wait out the Covid-19 pandemic. This has forced us to physically pause.

It is this pause that has allowed sounds to amplify. And the sounds of Portugal are soothing us.

Church Bells

Ringing loud with a melodic song-like rhythm, Portugal’s village church bells dance into our apartment. Morning, evening, and even in the dark of night. I’m convinced an orchestra conductor or musician is choreographing these acts.

At various hours, half hours, or fifteen minutes after an hour, when one church bell ends its ringing, another church bell may begin. We truly love hearing them. (As I write this, there they go again. And again.)

These bells have been such a calming sound. I wonder if it’s because they activate a genetic reminder of a time gone by when weekly gatherings brought hope and comfort. Or maybe it’s because our closest church, built in the 1300s, honors a Chapel of Bones.

Inflections of the Portuguese Language

Before we came to Portugal, I wondered what the Portuguese language might sound like to my untrained ears. Initially, I had a hard time explaining it.

But with our apartment in the village, and with most tourists gone right now, we hear the sweet sounds of the Portuguese language spoken below our window.

After more than forty days of listening, I think the Portuguese language sounds like a beautiful combination of the following:

  • a dash of the romantic inflections heard in French

  • mixed with the endearing directness of Croatian

  • along with a hint of Spanish familiarity

But Portuguese is most definitely not Spanish. Portuguese is a culture and language all its own.

If there’s one thing to note, it’s that there is usually such a large amount of tourism down here in Portugal that the Portuguese are surrounded by many different languages. Thus, many Portuguese speak some English.

Yet I love it when we encounter Portuguese elders who do not speak English, for it allows us to hear the pure fluency of Portuguese.

Portuguese Music

I rarely tune in to the radio nowadays, yet without trying, we noticed radio stations in Portugal that cater to English-speaking expats. This inspired us to seek out the sounds of Portugal’s authentic music: Portuguese classical music and Portuguese traditional/folk music.

I didn’t find a local radio station that plays this music consistently, but I did find these online sounds of Portugal. And they’re beautiful.

Those With Wings

There is a sound we hear in Portugal that can literally pass as either a crying toddler or a meowing cat. My instincts take immediate note. But it’s impossible to know exactly who is making this sound unless we take a look out the window. It’s usually a bird.

Across the roof, there’s a little Gull family, sitting on its flowering nest, sleeping in the sun, crying out at will, surrounded by yellow blossoms swaying in the wind. We can’t help but keep checking on them.

We are also surrounded by loud and large clusters of chirping finches and swallows that flit and flutter from rooftop to rooftop as if they’re stringing lights. Currently feeding their nesting babies in the eaves and over low doorways, we enjoy each opportunity to watch them closely.

Even a giant white stork flew by our window, low and slow, in the middle of the night. A wingspan as wide as wide can be, exposed by the twinkling lights of its flight path—our narrow village alley. I was sure its wingtips were tickling both sides, as it flew. Swoosh.

Deep Howling

Occasionally, I hear a deep howling as I’ve never heard before. It starts nearby, joined by far more, farther away.

I’ve lived with dogs and coyotes, which sound so familiar and easy to identify. But this sound in Portugal is not that familiar sound.

It appears we’ve been hearing wild dogs (feral, stray, abandoned, free-range) that still roam Portugal. Letting out the deepest, most primitive of howls—as if they’re wailing for a life that has been lost.

It was reassuring to read about Portuguese organizations working hard to care for these individuals. Some of these organizations even provide free housing for volunteers.

Portuguese Sounds of Inclusion

Since we’ve been in pandemic isolation, we’ve also felt grateful for the sounds we hear from Portugal’s leaders. Leaders who have used reassuring words to steadfastly convey…

  • we care about you

  • we want to protect you

  • you are safe here

  • if your legal paperwork has expired, you are legal here

  • if your legal paperwork has expired, you are officially considered a citizen here

  • if your legal paperwork has expired, you officially have access to all citizen services, like healthcare

  • we care about you

  • we want to protect you

  • you are safe here